I try to stay calm and collected, but spotting a pimple drives me to extremes. I’ve used everything from salicylic and glycolic acids to cotton balls soaked in witch hazel, ignoring what’s best for my skin. Fortunately, years of collaboration with dermatologists led me to kinder solutions for treating acne—specifically, azelaic acid. Let’s explore why this underappreciated ingredient can transform your complexion.
Unlike traditional harsh treatments, azelaic acid is a gentler alternative. This dermatologist-approved ingredient comes in various formulations. Whether in a gel, serum, foam, or cream, azelaic acid effectively combats bacteria in your pores through mild exfoliation.
To unpack more about azelaic acid’s benefits, I consulted board-certified dermatologist Dr. Elizabeth Geddes-Bruce and Karen Fernandez, lead aesthetician at SkinSpirit. Keep reading to find out everything you need to know about this acne-fighting superstar.
Feature image by Claire Huntsberger.
What Exactly is Azelaic Acid?
“Azelaic acid is a mild acid produced by a yeast found in grains,” explains Dr. Geddes-Bruce. “It has numerous benefits and is gentle enough for those with sensitive skin conditions like rosacea.”
How Does Azelaic Acid Benefit Skin?
This powerhouse ingredient boasts several impressive properties. “Azelaic acid shines because it offers anti-inflammatory benefits,” Dr. Geddes-Bruce states.
It acts as an antioxidant, reducing inflammation while preventing harmful bacteria from thriving on the skin’s surface. “Additionally, it inhibits an enzyme responsible for hyperpigmentation,” adds Dr. Geddes-Bruce.
Results from azelaic acid require some patience. For over-the-counter products, expect to see changes within four to five months. However, with prescription options containing 15 to 20% azelaic acid, improvements can occur in two to three months,” says Fernandez.
Who Can Use Azelaic Acid?
One of the best features of azelaic acid is its broad compatibility. Almost any skin type can use it safely, including pregnant or breastfeeding women. For those whose skin is too sensitive for harsher treatments, this effective ingredient can significantly improve hyperpigmentation, melasma, rosacea, and acne.
To maximize its effects, azelaic acid often works well with other treatments. “In many situations, it’s best combined with other formulations for full effectiveness,” Fernandez adds.
Where Should Azelaic Acid Fit in Your Routine?
Azelaic acid is most commonly found in serums. Apply it on clean, dry skin before your moisturizer and sunscreen. “Always layer concentrated serums first, before heavier creams,” suggests Fernandez.
While azelaic acid is gentle, it’s still powerful. “Although it layers well with other products, using it concurrently with other acids or retinoids may lead to irritation,” Dr. Geddes-Bruce explains. “It’s advisable to avoid combining it with peptides to ensure their effectiveness isn’t compromised.”
Can You Use Azelaic Acid Daily?
For those with very sensitive skin, it’s wise to ease into using azelaic acid, but most people can apply it daily without issue.
“We appreciate it because most skin types don’t require a ‘ramp-up’ period— no peeling or sensitivity from daily use,” Fernandez states. “However, if your skin reacts negatively, it’s best to stop using it.”
Top Azelaic Acid Products for Skin
These dermatologist-approved serums and creams combine azelaic acid with other potent ingredients for effective acne and rosacea solutions.
Glytone Enhance Brightening Complex
“This product combines glycolic acid and azelaic acid to effectively tackle stubborn pigmentation.” — Dr. Geddes-Bruce
Glytone Enhance Brightening Complex with 12% Azelaic Acid, $66.60
Shop NowSkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment
“This treatment includes 3% azelaic acid along with other calming ingredients, making it effective yet gentle. It serves as a great daily treatment that hydrates while helping to prevent acne scarring.” — Fernandez
SkinCeuticals Phyto A+ Brightening Treatment, $105
Shop NowFoundation Skincare Azelaic Acid Cream
“Developed by a board-certified dermatologist, this potent 14% azelaic acid cream is an excellent and affordable alternative to prescription options.” — Dr. Geddes-Bruce
Foundation Skincare Azelaic Acid Cream, $45
Shop NowNaturium Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10%
“One of my new favorite product lines with a fantastic price and elegant formulation. Plus, you can find it at Target.” — Dr. Geddes-Bruce
Naturium Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10%, $25.99
Shop NowJan Marini Skin Research Rosalieve
“This redness-reducing product features azelaic acid as a key ingredient.” — Fernandez
Jan Marini Skin Research Rosalieve, $95
Shop NowThe Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension Brightening Cream
“Only $10?! This cult favorite is a fantastic alternative to prescription products. It’s a bit thick, so it’s best used in the evening.” — Dr. Geddes-Bruce
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension Brightening Cream, $10
Shop Now
